Thursday, May 25, 2006

Final few days in Xela

I am a bit sad to be leaving, but excited for Brendan and I to have our own schedule for a while and to see more of Guatemala. On Saturday we are heading north to Todos Santos for a couple of days, then across the Cuchumatanes Mountains to Coban, then up to Tikal. We will be back in the Antigua area about mid June in order to fly out of Guatemala City on the 15th. I will try to post some more, but I am not sure how much luck I will have. Just getting the photos from the last few weekends up was a bit of a mess, as you can see. But at least you see them!

Weekend photo dump II


Weekend photo dump II
Originally uploaded by tamiticu.
We spent our second weekend in Fuentes Georginas, natural springs heated by a volcano. The trip up the mountain in the back of a pickup truck was one of the best parts of the trip. The views were absolutely beautiful. Lush, almost tropical forests and small farms that looked like a patchwork quilt draped over the hillsides. Standing in the back of the pickup, hanging onto a rail that had been attached (a standard form of public transportation here, especially outside of the cities) as the driver spead around the curves along the mountain was quite thrilling. The hot springs were super relaxing, and Brendan and I rented a cabin for a night.

Weekend photo dump III, river before and after

Weekend photo dump III, river before and after

Weekend photo dump III


Weekend photo dump III
Originally uploaded by tamiticu.

Weekend photo dump III


Weekend photo dump III
Originally uploaded by tamiticu.

Weekend photo dump III


Weekend photo dump III
Originally uploaded by tamiticu.
Last weekend we did a two day backpacking trip with Quetzaltrekkers, a great organization with volunteer guides that gives its proceeds to a school for street kids in Xela. We hiked up alongside Volcan Santiaguito, which is still active, and spent the evening watching the eruptions and lava flows. We were about two kilometers from the volcano, and it was amazing. An erupting volcano, to my surprise, looks and sounds almost exactly as I imagined it would. The hike up was really cool, we passed through savannah and tropical forest and a lava fields and met several men and women carrying ridiculously heavy loads strapped to their heads. We were there for fun, they were there to work. On the way there we started the hike by crossing a swing bridge over what, at the time, was a deep ravine with a small stream at the bottom. On the way back about 30 hours later, we crossed the same ravine, but this time it was gushing with thick black water. Apparently there had been an underground eruption from the volcano, and the lava had mixed with the river water and created a huge, gushing, rapids. Walking over that river on an old wooden swing bridge was one of the most awesome experiences of my life. The entire town had come out to see the river, apparently this had only happened once before.

Weekend photo dump I

This is Maximon.

Weekend photo dump I
Originally uploaded by tamiticu.

Weekend photo dump I


Weekend photo dump I
Originally uploaded by tamiticu.

Our first weekend in Guatemala, we headed to the town of Santiago de Atitlan on the beautiful Lago Atitlan. Immediately after stepping off the dock in Santiago, we were surrounded by small children muttering "Maximon? Volcan?" For the rest of the weekend we were not really able to go to close to the lake without being followed by children and men who wanted to sell the gringos something. But we did have a great time. Santiago is a neat town with a market on Sunday and a nice walk up to a place called Parque de Paz, a memorial park where a massacre took place in the 1980s during the civil war. Once a lot of the tourists had headed back across the lake to Panajachel about 3 p.m., we were able to relax a little bit and enjoy the town a bit more.

We did take one kid up on his offer to take us to see Maximon for 15 quetzales. Maximon is a sort of pagan idol that is housed in a private home. People come to pray and bring offerings of rum and cigarettes, which the family places in his mouth or pours down his gullet. When we were there a teacher was praying for support for her school and students, at least that is what the boy who took us there said.

Maximon has roots in Mayan beliefs, paganism, and even a bit of Christianity. I do not really understand it, but I suppose it is not for me to understand. It was neat to see nonetheless.

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

More on immigration: I´m so confused

While it has been interesting to be here in Guate during the time when everyone´s on the edge of their seats wondering what´s going to happen to their family members in the United States, lately my conversations have been more along the lines of ´what is going on?´It´s been really hard to follow the immigration debate down here, with changes every day and Bush apparently flip flopping. So I decided to do some NYT web research today to try to sort it out. This outline helps a little, though I think it won´t be much help to my teacher here who only speaks a little English. But WHAT THE EFF?!?! When my Spanish teacher mentioned to me the other day that 'there´s a group in the U.S. that wants to make English the official language,' I just figured it was one of those ultra-conservative groups that´s always whining about other languages threatening the Great American Life. But the U.S. Senate?!?!

According to the NYT: ''...The proposal declares that no one has 'a right, entitlement or claim to have the government of the United States or any of its officials or representatives act, communicate, perform or provide services or provide materials in any language other than English.'" So how are we supposed to help all the undocumented immigrants who are supposedly going to be legalized get settled into their new life? How are we supposed to protect their rights as workers, ensure they are healthy, and provide things like HIV/AIDS education? While I agree that it is important for immigrants to learn English in order for them to protect their rights and give their families the lives they dream of, to deny them the right to request support from government agencies in a language they understand seems ridiculous and little dangerous.

I remember that in high school we were taught that the United States is a nation of immigrants and has no official language as if it were a source of national pride - and I went to a public high school in Nebraska, not exactly a liberal place. I´m beginning to be able recognize my country less and less. Someone please tell me that there has been a major outcry against this proposal.

Friday, May 19, 2006

La Familia de Doña Leti


La Familia de Doña Leti
Originally uploaded by tamiticu.

One of the projects we´ve been involved in here at the Spanish school is the construction of a new stove and room for a woman named Doña Leti and her three children who live just outside of Xela. Tonight my fellow social work student and I are cooking the weekly Friday night dinner and selling beer as a benefit for the family, because we´ve run out of funds to buy materials and construction on the new room has come to a halt. The thing is, to build the whole thing will cost just about $1,100. But here that´s a LOT of money. You can see in the photo that, just to the right of where Brendan and the other guy are working, there is a small structure made of corregated metal. That is Doña Leti´s currently home - it fits a stove and a small bed where her and her three children sleep. The rainy season is starting, which means longer and more intense rainstorms each day as the weeks go on. So you can see why building her a new home of concrete blocks is a bit urgent.

Below is a rough translation of the Spanish version of Doña Leti´sstory that I wrote to share with other students and people who might want to contribute. There´s a foundation in California that cancollect money too, if anyone in the States would like to help out:

Pop Wuj´s work with the family of Doña Leti in Llano del Pinal is a stove project and much more.

Doña Leti is 33 years old and has four children. Her oldest daughter, Aracely, is 15 years old. Her son Miguel Angel is nine years old and her daughter Norma is 7 years old. Antonieta is the baby, and is one and a half years old.

Doña Leti was married, but is now divorced. Her and her oldest daughter suffered domestic violence at the hands of her husband. Before they moved into their present home, the family lived in a shelter in Xela called Nuevos Horizontes (New Horizons). This is a house for women and children who suffer from domestic violence. Later, Doña Leti rented a house. Now, she is the owner of a small piece of land that includes a small house. But really, it is not a house in the proper sense of the word.

The house has only one room. There is space for a bed and a stove, nothing more. Students of Pop Wuj are building a new stove for her (she currently cooks on a barrel stove that sits outside). But there is neither electricity nor a latrine. The walls are not made of cinderblock, but of metal that is not strong enough to withstand the storms that are coming in the rainy season.

This family's situation is difficult. Thanks to Doña Leti´s intelligence, her husband is now in prison. To support her family, Doña Leti does many types of work. For example, she cleans houses, washes clothes, crochets items to sell, and sells juice to her neighbors. She used to have three pigs, and sometimes she grows vegetables. Recently, she had to sell two of her pigs. It is difficult to say how much money she makes because she does not have stable work. In addition to this work, she also does a lot for La Guardería, Pop Wuj´s day care and family support center, as a volunteer.

The eldest daughter, Aracely, has had a scholarship from Pop Wuj in the past and attended school, but she failed in her first year. She now lives in a Catholic home for girls. She was able to visit her mother during Holy Week, but a judge said that she has to stay in the shelter until her mother has a better house. The parents of Doña Leti have not given the family any help; even though they know Doña Leti and her children need a new house.

Miguel Angel and Norma are in school and like it a lot. Miguel Angel has a Pop Wuj scholarship, and two past Pop Wuj students gave a private scholarship for this year for Norma.

Still, because of all of her problems here, Doña Leti dreams of earning money in the United States. This would be terrible for her children, and they are afraid that their mother will leave them. We are starting to build a new room for Doña Leti and her family, where they will be able to live and sleep away from the stove. The construction has begun, and we have some materials, but we still need to buy more cinder blocks and materials to make the cement, as well as labor. In total, it will all cost about 10,000 quetzales (U.S. $1,100). We have raised about 2,500 quetzales.

Clearly, this project is about more than a stove or a room. We hope that the students and volunteers of Pop Wuj, with the support of their friends and families, can help us raise the money needed to give hope to Doña Leti.


Sunday, May 14, 2006

Happy Mothers Day

El Día de la Madre here was on Wednesday - May 10 every year - and it was almost on the scale of a national holiday. There was some commercial aspect to it, but many working mothers got the day off, along with some schools. On Tuesday there were school parties for students´ mothers, and we saw rose vendors in the streets and children walking home from school with big red paper hearts clutched in their hands, ready to present to their mothers. Our host mother, her niece, and Eva, were up late on Monday fiercely crocheting a red block that one of her kindergarten students was supposed to give to her mother the next day. The entire class (including the boys) had learned to crochet specifically for the occasion, but one unlucky student left her finished block unattended, and it was stolen. Of course it reappeared the next day, after our entire host family had pulled together to replace it. But they really do take Mothers Day seriously here.

At the rural day care and family support center that my Spanish school operates, there was a big party on Wednesday afternoon with about 15 mothers and almost 40 kids. The kids performed traditional Maya dances (complete with giggles from both the children and the mothers), as well as one dance straight off the floor of a discotheque (which I giggled at quite a bit myself, I mean, these children were about 7 years old!). The mothers competed for prizes in classic games like musical chairs and ´´balance the egg on a spoon in your mouth´´ (this time played with small tomatoes instead of eggs, as well as more educational games like ´the first mother to correctly state her youngest child´s birth month and day wins a prize.´ Apparently specific dates aren´t terribly important in rural Mayan life, although the women at the daycare used the game to emphasize that they are important when one has to go to the city for a doctors appointment or enroll in schools.

The party was fun, and a refreshing celebration of women in a week when most of our activities with Carmen revolved around discussions of domestic violence.

Saturday, May 13, 2006

A bit about how we´re doing

I realize that I´ve barely been posting, and when I do I cheat and postdate. That´s because I really have very little time to be on the computer, but I have been writing most days in my li`l notebook and speed-typing my notes into blogger when I can. Which isn´t easy, since the computers here at the school have Spanish keyboards, often have the key labels rubbed off, and what actually appears on the screen often does not correspond to its label. also realize that I´ve mostly been opinionating on some pretty big themes as if I´ve been in this country for more than two weeks. But I´ll save the book research for when I´m home – right now I´m just keeping track of all the conversations and interactions I´ve already been lucky to be a part of.

What I haven´t shared is that Brendan and I are having a really great time. We really like our host family. The house is comfortable enough, and we share it with eight other people: our host mom, who is a kindergarten teacher and who sits with us at every meal to chat, even if we get home after everyone else has already eaten; host dad, who´s a judge in a little town two hours away so we barely see him (Brendan: my host dad´s a judge); eldest daughter, who recently quit her job as a severely underpaid kindergarten teacher to work for the government education department, and who also is a full-time law student at night; eldest son and middle daughter, who we barely ever seen; and the two youngest daughters, our favorite of whom is super cute and chatty seven-year-old Louisa. Eva, the live-in maid who seems to be about our age, rounds out the house. Apparently it´s fairly common among the Ladino (non-indigenous) middle class here to have a maid.

Our language school has given us a very good experience so far, as you can probably guess based on my blathering in the last few posts. I´m enjoying following Carmen around the countryside to learn more about Guatemalan life and women´s issues, and my Spanish teacher and I have the best conversations. In yesterday´s lesson, for example, we talked about: the previous day´s seminar with a Maya midwife; the childbirth cases he encounters working with clients (as a law student volunteer at a local domestic violence legal aid clinic) who don´t have access to the pre- and post- natal care they need; the similarities between Guate´s and the United States´ indigenous peoples; the Trail of Tears (he was shocked to learn such a thing had happened in the U.S.); some current issues facing Native Americans in the U.S: (even more shocked); the presence of racism in the U.S. (shocked again); the various Guatemalan and U.S. versions of Little Red Riding Hood; Dr. Seuss; and TV cartoons, with special attention to our shared dislike for Japanese anime. Not to mention reviewing the various uses of POR and PARA, expressions that use the infinitive forms of verbs, and the appropriate use of HAY.

All of which brings me to the fact that I have somehow reclaimed all the Spanish I knew in college, and more. At least that´s how I feel. It could be that Guatemalans are just a lot easier to understand than Chileans and that I am less self-conscious than I used to be. I´ve been chattering on without agonizing over whether I´m conjugating every verb perfectly, and have managed to have some pretty complex conversations.

What is even cooler is that Brendan is starting to catch on to a lot too. He´s struggling with a lot of memorization, but has actually had a few short conversations on his own and is getting pretty good at following conversation with our host mom at the dinner table. I´m really proud of him. We´re having a wonderful time traveling together.

I´ll share more about our weekend jaunts later, when next I´m able to spend some time on the internet. Right now Brendan´s patiently waiting on me and studying his verb tenses.

Monday, May 08, 2006

Building a movement to defend Guatemala´s women

I spent most of today at a workshop on domestic violence, held by the governmental organization Defensorìa de la Mujer Indìgena (Defense of the Indigenous Woman) for women in the rural communities surrounding Xela. I´ve never been to a domestic violence training course before in the United States, and I´m not sure what I was expecting, but I was surprised that the six’hour workshop was basically Your Human Rights 101.

Example: “¨What is sexual violence? If your husband forces you to have sex and you don´t want to, that is sexual violence. If your husband hits you, that is domestic violence and should not happen. Suffering abuse is not part of being a wife.” Did these women really not know that getting beaten by their husbands was wrong?

And am I naïve for supposing that most victims of domestic violence in the United States know any better? Women raised in a violent environment, who never know anything else? I`ve assumed that most U.S. anti-domestic violence activities revolve more around telling women what resources are available to help them, not so much informing them that abuse is bad. If any of my friends who actually work with victims of domestic violence are reading this and can tell me what really happens, I´d appreciate it.

Not believing that this information really was new to most of the women in the room, I asked Carmen (the coordinator of the social work program I´m participating in at our language school) if the workshop seemed a bit basic to her. Most of the women know their husbands shouldn´t beat them, she said, and some have been involved in other similar workshops and women´s groups. But when they are at home the abuse continues and the women are afraid to do anything about it. The workshop was a bit basic, she admitted, but important from an empowerment standpoint.

The Defensoría is a governmental organization that was created to break the cycle of violence against women that had been institutionalized in Guatemala, and is starting to gear more of its activities toward dealing with domestic violence. Now, only 10 years out from the end of a 36’year civil war, it´s no secret that Guatemala is a violent place (violence against Guatemelan women was featured on the front page of the Boston Globe just before I came down here). Sometimes my conversations with Carmen and my Spanish teacher leave me wondering if there is any hope that the cycle can be broken. But in a way at today´s meeting I felt like I might be witnessing part of the beginning of Guate´s women´s rights movement, possibly not so different from what happened in the United States decades ago.

The women of the Defensoría plan to continue to have to have these types oif meeting throughout the highlands, and today´s was partly an introduction so the 15 or so women who were there could go back to there communities, share the information, and bring more women to the next gathering. In the afternoon, we broke into small groups that each had representation from several communities and talked about the violence tha teach community deals with. We talked about physical violence in the home and on the streets, discrimination against women in land inheritance and ownership disputes (a big deal since Maya spouses do not always live together, and women are often pressured to give their piece of land to their children), women’s rights to work and to have a degree of economic autonomy from their husbands, the importance of having control over one´s own body, and the importance of women´s participation in the political process. The truth is, even men in many Maya rural communities here are often illiterate and suffer discrimination when it comes to voting. But seeing this group of Maya women starting to build a solidarity movement to support women´s right to vote throughout Guatemala showed me there is some hope. A little. I find myself thinking about the challenges still facing women in the United Sates, and realizing we are at least 40 years ahead of the women here. And at least 40 years ago the United States had a system of courts and laws that generally were functional. Guatemalan women, and men, have a huge mountain to climb just to get to that point. But really, these rural Maya communities existed thousands of years before my idea of “laws” and “courts” even existed. WOemn were well-respected, as women were in most indigenous cultures throughout the world before they were corrupted by colonialism. In many families, they are the major decision-makers even today because so many men have left for the United States. It doesn´t seem like real change is going to come from the Guatemalan government, but from a growing movement of women like those I met today.

Friday, May 05, 2006

More on immigration: The choices people make

Following up on my ramblings from the other day on the immigration protests. My teacher today said he is learning a lot about the United States by watching the coverage of the aftermath of Monday's protests.

Many Guatemalans dream about living in the United States, he said, but now they are startng to see that it really is just a dream. Of course it is well known that crossing the border is dangerous, but many don't realize that the danger and the hardship doesn't stop there. I had a similar conversation just before I came here with a friend who had returned from nine months in Ecuador. There she worked for a school and a small NGO, and said that many of the families she knew imagined life in the United States as something out of one of the primetime WB shows that broadcast with Spanish subtitles throughout Latin America. I was surprised that the hardships immigrants face in the United States was not widely known down here, until I started talking with my teacher, an educated law student who seems to have a strong interest in learning about U.S. law.

Part of the social work program I'm doing here will involve me visiting and working with mothers who are victims of domestic violence, widows, or essentially single mothers because their husbands are in the United States. I chatted with one "single" mother of three yesterday, as we cut pineapple and bananas and watermelon for a fruit salad to share with the other Maya mothers who had gathered for a weekly meeting and literacy lesson. Ofelia's husband has been in the United States for about one year now, and is likely not going to be able to come home or even visit any time soon. The daycare organization provides a place for her kids to go during the day, and also provides scholarships to allow children in the community to buy the books and uniforms needed to go to school. But still she is left to raise three children (her fourth child died in infancy about a year ago). Immigration is draining the communities of their men, she said, and now the women are starting to go as well because both spouses are suspicious of the other's infidelity while they are apart. What will be left of these communities?

Many of the articles I've read in the United States tell of families who use remittances to build houses and live the American Dream in Guatemala. I've seen some of those cars in the streets, but out in the campo with the women who have been left behind to worry about feeding and educating their children, not to mention securing clean drinking water and protecting their homes during the rainy season that is due to start any day now. It's hard for me to see, a year after her husband moved to Los Angeles, whether her family's life has improved enough to make the sacrifices they are making on each side of the border worth it.

I just found out that on Monday I'm going to get to attend a workshop on domestic violence that is being organized for women from the communities surrounding Xela. I'm probably more excited than one should be about going to something that's bound to be pretty depressing. Before that, Brendan and I are going to be gringo tourists and spend the weekend at Lago Atitlan.